By: Sharon Brook
Tips for Considering Fish Pond UV Sterilizers
Ultra violet lights have many applications all over the industry and other fields. Ultraviolet sterilizers are used to sterilize the medical instruments and for sterilization of water. UV has another wide application in aquariums and fish ponds. It is mainly used in fish pond to control algae.
A UV sterilizer mainly consists of four main components: a UV germicidal lamp, a quartz sleeve to enclose the lamp and save it from water, electrical ballast for supplying electrical input to the lamp, and the main body of sterilizer which holds and houses all the parts. The water flows through the sterilizer and gets sterilized.
Although, UV is widely used in the water gardens, there are still some misconceptions about their use. A matter of concern is that use of UV will kill all types of bacteria in the pond: both useful and not useful. This is not correct statement. It is sure that all water can not pass through the UV sterilizer. Some useful bacteria will always remain in the pond on everything including the filter sleeve. All this bacteria is not sterilized. A UV will be installed with certain filtering capacity taking proper consideration of the pond size. It will help in reducing the bacteria and micro-organism found harmful for fish. Another function of UV is to destroy DNA in single cell algae cells and kill it effectively. When there is turbidity in water the UV will clear it and make the water clean.
UV sterilizers have proved 100% efficient in cleaning water from single cell algae. UV does not filter any water in the pond; it only makes the water clear. One of the main considerations from the users of UV can be that they see perfectly the clear water in the pond while they need water which is of good quality for the fish. Crystal clear water can still damage the fish.
It is necessary to always have a biological filtration system installed along with the UV sterilizer in the pond. Fish gives off ammonia in pond. The biological filter is required to split ammonia and dead organism including the dead algae that is killed UV. In case a biological filter is not being used, green water will vanish with algae; there will be another filamentous -algae which will replace the algae.
When you want to purchase a UV sterilizer you are bound to face some sort of confusion. Some manufacturers do not use the name UV sterilizer; in stead they call them UV clarifiers. The specification and suitability given by different companies don't match. For instance a 25 W UV is suitable for 1200 gallon pond whereas the 25 W UV from another company is said to be good for a 2300 gallons pond. That is all confusion.
So what is correct? There are two reasons for this confusion. One company is calling it as a clarifier: means it will not make crystal clear water without a large number of plants to help it. So the capacity is 2300 gallons. The other company designates it as sterilizer, it will give clear water even without the plants and its capacity is 1200 gallons. The plants are good to make the pond healthier. In addition to this there can be some difference in the efficiency of UV system. It means that 25 W from two different companies will not be equally effective.
You can get some real advantages by installing a UV sterilizer in your pond. But it is essential to include biological filtration equipment also to get best results in your fish pond.
Sunday, July 18
Tips on Caring for African Cichlids
By: Michael Grantham
Tips on Caring for African Cichlids
Both large and diverse, the cichlid family holds over one thousand species from many different locations, including the great African Rift Lakes, South America, Central America, Madagascar and even Asia. Noted for their hardy nature, strong personality and vibrant color, many cichlids have become favorites throughout the aquarium trade and are often kept by those new to tropical fish keeping as well as experienced breeders and advanced hobbyists.
Although each species falls under the common family name, it is important not to generalize as cichlids are unique and have specific requirements and habitats depending on the geographical location from which they were derived.
Should anyone wish to keep cichlids it is a good idea to first consider; how much effort you are willing to put into your hobby, the size of the tank you have available and what you are looking for in a fish. Furthermore, it is also recommended that you do some back ground research, reading up on several species which appeal to you, their requirements and their availability in your local area. It is important to remember that just because you see a fish on the internet or in a book, does not mean you will be able to obtain that specific fish, as import laws and environmental restrictions vary from country to country and even from state to state. However, any questions you might have about such laws can easily be cleared up by taking a quick trip to your local pet store.
When deciding which fish is right for you, it is most important to remember that each cichlid species is unique not only in terms of requirements, but also when referring to aggression, nutrition requirements, reproduction method and preferred tank decorations and or tank mates.
Of the cichlids, those from central and south America, are generally larger in size and bulk to their African counterparts. Species from Central America tend to prefer a neutral pH of about 7.0. Commonly, these fish are large and loud in terms of personality and aggression and as a result, tend to be best kept with fish similar in size and level of aggression. On the other hand, many of the cichlids derived from South America prefer a far more soft acidic environment; their pH around 6.5. Further, fish of these area tend to be far less aggressive and should be kept in warm watered community tanks. Both South and Central American cichlids are omnivorous and should be fed a mixed diet, incorporating live, prepared, and dried and frozen foods. This may include both meat and vegetables.
Far more complex in their geographical distribution, cichlids from the African Rift Lakes often prefer hard Alkaline waters with a pH ranging from 7.5 9.0. Essentially, the range of these fish goes beyond the scope of this article. Thus, should you wish to learn more specific information about such species, please see my other articles for further advice.
Tips on Caring for African Cichlids
Both large and diverse, the cichlid family holds over one thousand species from many different locations, including the great African Rift Lakes, South America, Central America, Madagascar and even Asia. Noted for their hardy nature, strong personality and vibrant color, many cichlids have become favorites throughout the aquarium trade and are often kept by those new to tropical fish keeping as well as experienced breeders and advanced hobbyists.
Although each species falls under the common family name, it is important not to generalize as cichlids are unique and have specific requirements and habitats depending on the geographical location from which they were derived.
Should anyone wish to keep cichlids it is a good idea to first consider; how much effort you are willing to put into your hobby, the size of the tank you have available and what you are looking for in a fish. Furthermore, it is also recommended that you do some back ground research, reading up on several species which appeal to you, their requirements and their availability in your local area. It is important to remember that just because you see a fish on the internet or in a book, does not mean you will be able to obtain that specific fish, as import laws and environmental restrictions vary from country to country and even from state to state. However, any questions you might have about such laws can easily be cleared up by taking a quick trip to your local pet store.
When deciding which fish is right for you, it is most important to remember that each cichlid species is unique not only in terms of requirements, but also when referring to aggression, nutrition requirements, reproduction method and preferred tank decorations and or tank mates.
Of the cichlids, those from central and south America, are generally larger in size and bulk to their African counterparts. Species from Central America tend to prefer a neutral pH of about 7.0. Commonly, these fish are large and loud in terms of personality and aggression and as a result, tend to be best kept with fish similar in size and level of aggression. On the other hand, many of the cichlids derived from South America prefer a far more soft acidic environment; their pH around 6.5. Further, fish of these area tend to be far less aggressive and should be kept in warm watered community tanks. Both South and Central American cichlids are omnivorous and should be fed a mixed diet, incorporating live, prepared, and dried and frozen foods. This may include both meat and vegetables.
Far more complex in their geographical distribution, cichlids from the African Rift Lakes often prefer hard Alkaline waters with a pH ranging from 7.5 9.0. Essentially, the range of these fish goes beyond the scope of this article. Thus, should you wish to learn more specific information about such species, please see my other articles for further advice.
Tips for Choosing Fish for a Cold Water Aquarium
By: Matthew Olsen
Tips for Choosing Fish for a Cold Water Aquarium
The majority of aquarium fish that are on the market can actually be considered in an unheated tank. The problem however is that without a heater in your tank the temperature can change relatively quickly. These temperature swings send most fish into shock and can be fatal to them. The fish that can adapt to these temperature changes quickly are considered to be cold water fish because of this ability.
When beginning to look at fish to go into an unheated aquarium you need to look at a few factors that will determine the type of fish you will buy. How large a fish will get and how well it can survive in a tank with constant temperature swings are the two questions that are specific to choosing cold water fish. By answering these two questions you can easily verify how well a fish will survive.
The size of any fish determines ultimately if you can even think about putting it in your tank. For example koi are a well known cold water fish but they can grow to be as big as 24 inches long easily requiring 500 gallons per fish. Not even I know someone who has a tank that big!
Temperature swings are the kicker. How can you tell from that little two inch by four inch square in front of the fish's tank if it is the right one? Well you must keep in mind that all fish can live in an unheated aquarium. The determining factor is not there on that little info sheet provided so I have a few fish listed that can survive temperature swings fairly well.
Goldfish are not as big and being related to koi is a definite choice in a cold water tank. They are very common fish and are not at all expensive. The only problem is that they are hostile to any small fish that are not of their own type.
Barbs, tetras, and dianos are all relatively small fish growing almost three inches and can live in a cold water environment. These fish relatively like the water to be in the low sixties but can survive in lower temperatures. These fish are schooling fish and rarely can survive on their own.
Loaches are the substitute to catfish you can use in your tank to clean up after other fish. These scavengers will pick up anything that was left over after feeding time that the other fish missed. They are not all suited for this type of tank however but the two that seem to be the best are the hillstream loach and the weather loach.
Last but not least guppies and white cloud minnows are the best of the best of cold water survival besides goldfish. They can go to low temperatures and come in many different colors. These fish are also schooling fish, grow to about one or two inches, and are very easy to come by.
These fish are the best at adapting to changing temperatures but they are not the only ones. Other fish can be in an unheated tank but they must be located where the temperature does not change suddenly. With the right size of tank and correct location you can have almost any fish you could want in your aquarium.
Tips for Choosing Fish for a Cold Water Aquarium
The majority of aquarium fish that are on the market can actually be considered in an unheated tank. The problem however is that without a heater in your tank the temperature can change relatively quickly. These temperature swings send most fish into shock and can be fatal to them. The fish that can adapt to these temperature changes quickly are considered to be cold water fish because of this ability.
When beginning to look at fish to go into an unheated aquarium you need to look at a few factors that will determine the type of fish you will buy. How large a fish will get and how well it can survive in a tank with constant temperature swings are the two questions that are specific to choosing cold water fish. By answering these two questions you can easily verify how well a fish will survive.
The size of any fish determines ultimately if you can even think about putting it in your tank. For example koi are a well known cold water fish but they can grow to be as big as 24 inches long easily requiring 500 gallons per fish. Not even I know someone who has a tank that big!
Temperature swings are the kicker. How can you tell from that little two inch by four inch square in front of the fish's tank if it is the right one? Well you must keep in mind that all fish can live in an unheated aquarium. The determining factor is not there on that little info sheet provided so I have a few fish listed that can survive temperature swings fairly well.
Goldfish are not as big and being related to koi is a definite choice in a cold water tank. They are very common fish and are not at all expensive. The only problem is that they are hostile to any small fish that are not of their own type.
Barbs, tetras, and dianos are all relatively small fish growing almost three inches and can live in a cold water environment. These fish relatively like the water to be in the low sixties but can survive in lower temperatures. These fish are schooling fish and rarely can survive on their own.
Loaches are the substitute to catfish you can use in your tank to clean up after other fish. These scavengers will pick up anything that was left over after feeding time that the other fish missed. They are not all suited for this type of tank however but the two that seem to be the best are the hillstream loach and the weather loach.
Last but not least guppies and white cloud minnows are the best of the best of cold water survival besides goldfish. They can go to low temperatures and come in many different colors. These fish are also schooling fish, grow to about one or two inches, and are very easy to come by.
These fish are the best at adapting to changing temperatures but they are not the only ones. Other fish can be in an unheated tank but they must be located where the temperature does not change suddenly. With the right size of tank and correct location you can have almost any fish you could want in your aquarium.
Friday, July 16
Keeping Malawi Cichlids
By Mark Daymond
- Keeping Malawi Cichlids
- Malawi Mbuna Cichlids - Keeping and Breeding
- Introduction to Malawi Cichlids
Malawi Cichlids originate from the third largest lake in Africa and the eighth largest in the world, Lake Malawi. Lake Malawi is home to more fish species than anywhere else on earth. Being a rift valley lake, it is very rocky lake with little vegetation. The edges of the lake provide a different type of habitat; more sandy with fewer rocks and more open water. These two different types of habitat give rise to two different groups of Cichlid; the rock dwellers (or mbuna) and non-rock dwellers. If you are thinking of keeping Malawi Cichlids you will really need to decide which group you want to keep as generally the rock dwellers and non-rock dwellers do not get on well together. In fact they do not particularly get with other types of fish, so you will really need to restrict yourself to just mbunas or non-rock dwelling Cichlids. Once you have decided you will need to set up your aquarium accordingly. For rock dwelling fish, it should come as no great surprise that you need plenty of rocks. Not only this though, your fish need plenty of little caves and places to hide and explore. The non-rock dwellers prefer a sandy substrate and generally more open water. They should not have a completely bare tank though, they do need some interest. Typically they should have just a few rocks scattered over the floor of the tank, and they do not particularly need caves. In their natural environment, Malawi Cichlids live in water temperatures of around 24-26C or 76-79F, therefore you will need to try and replicate this within your aquarium. In order to avoid variations in temperatures you will need to locate your aquarium away from heaters and out of direct sunlight.
- Keeping Malawi Cichlids
- Malawi Mbuna Cichlids - Keeping and Breeding
- Introduction to Malawi Cichlids
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fish-care-guides.blogspot.com does not require, collect or store personal information. This Web site is free for all and You can use it without need to register account and leave any personal information. Therefore Your privacy is 100% safe on our Web site.
Third Party Advertising
fish-care-guides.blogspot.com uses Google AdSense and other third-party advertising companies to serve ads when you visit our Web site. These advertising companies may use some information (excluding Your name, address, e-mail address or telephone number) about your visits and behavior during those visits in order to provide advertisements about goods and services that may be of interest to you.
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Third-party advertising companies like Google AdSense i mentioned above may place or recognize a unique "cookie" on your browser while serving advertisements during Your visits. Cookies are not harmful in any way to You or Your PC and can be removed directly in any modern Web browser with no need of any anti-virus or anti-spyware software.
Thursday, July 15
Ammonia Effect On Fish
By Ben Helm
If that’s not bad enough for our fish, the reduction in the surface area of the gills also reduces a fish’s ability to excrete ammonia from its body, causing the ammonia levels in the fish to increase, damaging every cell in the fish’s body. More than 90 percent of all ammonia excreted by fish is done so by the gills. It’s not surprising therefore that when fish do experience ammonia in an aquarium, they show a pronounced and typical gasping response.
If ammonia strikes in what has previously been a mature and stable aquarium (not a result of New Pond Syndrome), then you should check the following:
1) Food and feeding. Have you (or anyone else) changed the food or fed more than usual?
2) Check the filter. Is it blocked? Is its flow rate reduced? Does the media need cleaning?
3) Fish count. Are there any fish missing? Is a dead fish decaying unnoticed behind your tank decor?
4) Too many fish? Have you recently added more fish — perhaps more than your tank can handle?
In summary, ammonia is lethal, and we should aim for zero levels at all times. Sublethal levels can also go unnoticed, causing fish stress and making them more susceptible to disease. If an ammonia spike does occur, it is likely to be in either a new aquarium (New Tank Syndrome) or due to an acute catastrophic event (overfeeding, fish death, etc.). However, rapid intervention and a mature filter will address both the problem and enable your aquarium (and fish) to recover. Fortunately, a filter will reprocess ammonia relatively into nitrite. Unfortunately, nitrite is still lethal to fish and proves to be more persistent and is a more stubborn problem to resolve — but that’s another story!
Ammonia’s Effect On Fish
Ammonia is a tissue irritant, causing real problems for delicate areas such as exposed gill tissue. The gill tissue responds to this irritation by hemorrhaging, with the delicate filaments thickening and clumping together — a condition called hyperplasia. The vast reduction in surface area caused by the clumping reduces a fish’s ability to absorb oxygen from the water. In addition to their undesirable state of affairs, any oxygen that is absorbed is done so suboptimally, as the presence of ammonia reduces the blood’s carrying capacity.
If that’s not bad enough for our fish, the reduction in the surface area of the gills also reduces a fish’s ability to excrete ammonia from its body, causing the ammonia levels in the fish to increase, damaging every cell in the fish’s body. More than 90 percent of all ammonia excreted by fish is done so by the gills. It’s not surprising therefore that when fish do experience ammonia in an aquarium, they show a pronounced and typical gasping response.
If ammonia strikes in what has previously been a mature and stable aquarium (not a result of New Pond Syndrome), then you should check the following:
1) Food and feeding. Have you (or anyone else) changed the food or fed more than usual?
2) Check the filter. Is it blocked? Is its flow rate reduced? Does the media need cleaning?
3) Fish count. Are there any fish missing? Is a dead fish decaying unnoticed behind your tank decor?
4) Too many fish? Have you recently added more fish — perhaps more than your tank can handle?
In summary, ammonia is lethal, and we should aim for zero levels at all times. Sublethal levels can also go unnoticed, causing fish stress and making them more susceptible to disease. If an ammonia spike does occur, it is likely to be in either a new aquarium (New Tank Syndrome) or due to an acute catastrophic event (overfeeding, fish death, etc.). However, rapid intervention and a mature filter will address both the problem and enable your aquarium (and fish) to recover. Fortunately, a filter will reprocess ammonia relatively into nitrite. Unfortunately, nitrite is still lethal to fish and proves to be more persistent and is a more stubborn problem to resolve — but that’s another story!
Wednesday, July 14
Cherry Shrimp Tank Mates
Cherry Shrimp Tank Mates
They prefer clean water, with a pH of 6.5-8, and a temperature of 14-30°C (65-85°F) They are most comfortable at 22°C. Cherry shrimp are omnivores that may live 1-2 years. Red cherry shrimp are easy to care for in the home freshwater aquarium and breed well. They will adapt to a wide range of water conditions, and will thrive in the same conditions as many common aquarium fish. A few cherry shrimp can be kept in a desktop aquarium of 4-8 litres (1-2 gallon) capacity, and a setup of 40 litres (10 gallons) or more will allow for an active colony.
They prefer clean water, with a pH of 6.5-8, and a temperature of 14-30°C (65-85°F) They are most comfortable at 22°C. Cherry shrimp are omnivores that may live 1-2 years. Red cherry shrimp are easy to care for in the home freshwater aquarium and breed well. They will adapt to a wide range of water conditions, and will thrive in the same conditions as many common aquarium fish. A few cherry shrimp can be kept in a desktop aquarium of 4-8 litres (1-2 gallon) capacity, and a setup of 40 litres (10 gallons) or more will allow for an active colony.
Cardinal Tetra Tank Temperature
- Cardinal Tetra Tank Temperature : 73°F - 80°F (23°C - 27°C)
- Water Hardness : 2° to 6° dH
- pH : 5.5 - 7, prefer water slightly on the acidic side
- Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger.
Cardinal Tetra Maintenance
Cardinal Tetra Maintenance
This species is more elongated than the Neon Tetra. Which it otherwise resembles in shape. These fish can reach a length of about one and one half inches. Sexually mature females are more stocky than males and are generally a little longer.
A somewhat delicate fish that is sensitive to water conditions. The tank should be a planted aquarium, with some floating plants to cut down on the light intensity. A darker substrate material will bring out the Cardinals colors best. Tankmates should consist only of other peaceful species,with no Cichlids. A temperature of 75° to 84° degrees F (24° to 29° c.) should be maintained and water of middle hardness to soft is recommended.
This species is more elongated than the Neon Tetra. Which it otherwise resembles in shape. These fish can reach a length of about one and one half inches. Sexually mature females are more stocky than males and are generally a little longer.
A somewhat delicate fish that is sensitive to water conditions. The tank should be a planted aquarium, with some floating plants to cut down on the light intensity. A darker substrate material will bring out the Cardinals colors best. Tankmates should consist only of other peaceful species,with no Cichlids. A temperature of 75° to 84° degrees F (24° to 29° c.) should be maintained and water of middle hardness to soft is recommended.
Zebra Danio Care and Tank Maintenance
Zebra Danio Care and Tank Maintenance
In their home waters the zebra is extremely active and always on the move. We need to provide for this in our home aquariums. The tank should be fairly large with length being more important than height. The ideal tank should be at least thirty inches in length.
Decorate the tank with plantings and rockwork, but always leave plenty of open space for swimming. They will take all types of commercial food from live , flake to frozen. They are a hardy species that are not overly demanding in their water conditions and make the ideal fish for the cycling of the tank. Today we see many inbred and twisted zebras in the store tanks, and it would be nice to see some fresh importation from the wild to give vigor back to our tank-bred strains.
In their home waters the zebra is extremely active and always on the move. We need to provide for this in our home aquariums. The tank should be fairly large with length being more important than height. The ideal tank should be at least thirty inches in length.
Decorate the tank with plantings and rockwork, but always leave plenty of open space for swimming. They will take all types of commercial food from live , flake to frozen. They are a hardy species that are not overly demanding in their water conditions and make the ideal fish for the cycling of the tank. Today we see many inbred and twisted zebras in the store tanks, and it would be nice to see some fresh importation from the wild to give vigor back to our tank-bred strains.
Tuesday, July 13
Frozen Betta Foods
Frozen Betta Foods
Freeze-dried betta food is very convenient to use. You can simply pick one or two free-dried bloodworms or shrimps and drop it into the container for your betta. Freeze-dried foods should be kept in airtight containers. Live food suitable for feeding includes shrimps, bloodworms and mosquito larvae. Some live foods can remain alive for a period of time in the water and allow your betta to be fed over a period of time. There is no fear of these organisms decomposing and making the water dirty.
Freeze-dried betta food is very convenient to use. You can simply pick one or two free-dried bloodworms or shrimps and drop it into the container for your betta. Freeze-dried foods should be kept in airtight containers. Live food suitable for feeding includes shrimps, bloodworms and mosquito larvae. Some live foods can remain alive for a period of time in the water and allow your betta to be fed over a period of time. There is no fear of these organisms decomposing and making the water dirty.
Betta Live Food
Betta Live Food
Mosquito larvae are the betta fish's natural food. Red mosquito larvae are called "bloodworms". Live brown worms and bloodworms are enjoyable to betta fish, but are notorious agents of disease and bacteria, as are most live foods.
If you decide to feed live worms to your betta, be sure to wash worms thoroughly. Never feed your betta fish worms from the garden or caught in the wild as they may have been subjected to pesticides.
Mosquito larvae are the betta fish's natural food. Red mosquito larvae are called "bloodworms". Live brown worms and bloodworms are enjoyable to betta fish, but are notorious agents of disease and bacteria, as are most live foods.
If you decide to feed live worms to your betta, be sure to wash worms thoroughly. Never feed your betta fish worms from the garden or caught in the wild as they may have been subjected to pesticides.
Sunday, July 4
Oscar Fish Care
Oscar Fish Care
Here are certain tips that must be followed in order to keep the Oscar fish diseases away from your Oscar fish.
Oscar Fish Care
Once the aquarium is set up, wait for some days for the Oscar fish to settle, as they will be a bit uncomfortable for the first few days.
Oscar Fish Care
Add only one or at most two fish at a time, as their biological filters take time to respond to the new changes and members of the tank.
Oscar Fish Care
An Oscar fish must be quarantined before it is moved to the main aquarium. This will reduce the risk of infection to the any other fishes.
Oscar Fish Care
Oscar fish need special treatment. Decorate your aquarium with lots of plants and small rocks and pebbles. Get it designed in such a way that the Oscar fish can hide. They love playing and hiding.
Oscar Fish Care
Generally, Oscars are loners, but you can choose other fishes that have a similar temperament as that of the Oscars. Neither a belligerent nor a passive Oscar is good for the other fishes.
Oscar Fish Care
Changing the water in the fish tank periodically is essential.
Oscar Fish Care
Use low intensity light as Oscars don't like bright lightning. You may use fluorescent light bulbs with ratings at 10,000K.
Oscar Fish Care
Choose gravel that can't be swallowed by the Oscar fish.
Oscar Fish Care
The air pumps and air stones must be placed so that they can oxygenate the water and release harmful chemicals by stirring the surface of water.
Here are certain tips that must be followed in order to keep the Oscar fish diseases away from your Oscar fish.
Oscar Fish Care
Once the aquarium is set up, wait for some days for the Oscar fish to settle, as they will be a bit uncomfortable for the first few days.
Oscar Fish Care
Add only one or at most two fish at a time, as their biological filters take time to respond to the new changes and members of the tank.
Oscar Fish Care
An Oscar fish must be quarantined before it is moved to the main aquarium. This will reduce the risk of infection to the any other fishes.
Oscar Fish Care
Oscar fish need special treatment. Decorate your aquarium with lots of plants and small rocks and pebbles. Get it designed in such a way that the Oscar fish can hide. They love playing and hiding.
Oscar Fish Care
Generally, Oscars are loners, but you can choose other fishes that have a similar temperament as that of the Oscars. Neither a belligerent nor a passive Oscar is good for the other fishes.
Oscar Fish Care
Changing the water in the fish tank periodically is essential.
Oscar Fish Care
Use low intensity light as Oscars don't like bright lightning. You may use fluorescent light bulbs with ratings at 10,000K.
Oscar Fish Care
Choose gravel that can't be swallowed by the Oscar fish.
Oscar Fish Care
The air pumps and air stones must be placed so that they can oxygenate the water and release harmful chemicals by stirring the surface of water.
Thursday, July 1
American Flagfish Care
American Flagfish Care
- Sexual differences: Males are colorful, while females are dull brown. Females are fuller bodied, with less elongated fins.
- Minimum Tank Size: 48 inches (55 gallon) longer is better than wide
- Aquarium : Water Temperature 66-72°F (19-22°C)
- Hardness: Hard 6-20 dH (12),
- pH 6.7-8.2 (7.7)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Max. Size: Size/Length: To 2.3" (6 cm)
- Feeding and Diet: Food Flake; live; insect larvae, insects, worms, crustaceans; spinach; algae.
- Difficulty of care: 3. This hardy species is ideal for a temperate community
- Suggested companions: Livebearers, Loricarids, Corydoras , minnows.
- Color Form: Blue, Green, Red
Goby Care
Goby Care
Yellow Watchman Goby, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Clown Goby, Yashia Whiteray Shrimp Goby, Tiger Watchman Goby, Blue Spot Shrimp Goby, Blue Mandarin, Target Mandarin, Warpaint Clown Goby, Red Clown Goby, Bullet Goby, Orange Spot Prawn Goby, Blue Dot Jawfish, Bluespotted Watchman Goby, Dracula Goby, Ember Blenny, Flaming Prawn Goby
- Minimum Tank Size: 48 inches (55 gallon) longer is better than wide
- Water Conditions: Temperature 75°F to 80°F (24 to 27°C)
- Hardness: Hard (dH 10.0 - 20.0)
- PH: 7.5 to 8.0
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Max. Size: 1-1/2"-3-1/2"
- Feeding and Diet: diet of brine shrimp, large shrimp chopped into bits, and other meaty foods.
Yellow Watchman Goby, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Clown Goby, Yashia Whiteray Shrimp Goby, Tiger Watchman Goby, Blue Spot Shrimp Goby, Blue Mandarin, Target Mandarin, Warpaint Clown Goby, Red Clown Goby, Bullet Goby, Orange Spot Prawn Goby, Blue Dot Jawfish, Bluespotted Watchman Goby, Dracula Goby, Ember Blenny, Flaming Prawn Goby
Black Molly Fish Care
Black Molly Fish Care
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Water Conditions: 67-80° F, KH 10-25, pH 7.0-7.8
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Max. Size: 3"
- Color Form: Black
- Diet: Omnivore
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